Danny's Missouri Backpacking & Hiking Trails Reviews

21 May 2004 updated 12 September 2006

Taum Sauk Section - Ozark Trail


Special Note: The Taum Sauk Section of the Ozark Trail remains closed between Profit Mtn and on through Johnson Shut-ins State Park due to the washout that occurred as a result of the failure of the Ameren-UE reservoir in December of 2005. Hikers in this area should plan on following the old Boy Scout Trail down to Hwy N then hiking west on Hwy N to Hwy MM on the north side of Hwy N. Follow Hwy MM to the Goggins Mountain Trailhead. By hiking the Goggins Mountain Trail clockwise you can use a cutover trail around the 2.4 mile point, as show on the Goggins Mountain Trail Map and catch the Ozark Trail on the west side of Goggins Mountain just a few tenths of a mile down the west side. It is not known when the Ozark Trail will be rebuilt within the Johnson Shut-ins Park corridor.

Location: - Iron and Reynolds Counties in Missouri passing through Taum Sauk Mountain and Johnson Shut-ins State parks and the USFS Bell Mountain Wilderness on the northwest end of the section.

Distance: - 33-miles from Hwy A in northen Iron County through Reynolds County then back into Iron County with termination at Hwy 21/72 east of Taum Sauk Mountain State Park. Johnson Shut-ins State Park is at the 15-mile point hiking west to east and at the 18-mile point hiking east to west.

Water: Water is available in both state parks although the water may be shut off in Taum Sauk State Park in the winter time. Water can also be found in Taum Sauk Creek from Mina Sauk Falls on downstream except in the very dry summer months and in some of the intermittent streams between Taum Sauk Mountain and Johnson Shut-ins State Parks in the wet seasons. The only reliable water source between Johnson Shut-ins State Park and Hwy A is Padfield Branch which is described below in the comments.

Parking: Overnight parking is available at four locations: At Hwy 21/72 at the east terminus of the section; at Taum Sauk Mountain State Park (about 6-miles from the east terminus); at Johnson Shut-ins State Park; and at Hwy A at the west terminus of the section.

Comments7Mar98 - Taum Sauk Section - Johnson Shut-Ins to Bell Mtn - from Robert Smith of Robertsville, MO: Until recently, the 15-mile portion of the Taum Sauk section was not totally open to camping. This may, in part, account for the relatively rough condition. Of the various sections of the Ozark Trail that I have traveled, this is, by far, the most difficult, in so far as an open path is concerned. Because a large portion of the trail travels on the sides of Goggins Mountain and Bell Mountain, the trail is strewn with boulders. I seriously doubt that any amount of trail maintenance would render the trail floor smooth. Hence one may as well accept it and wear heavy boots. On the plus side, except for the climb to the tops of the two mountains, the trail is relatively level. The vistas one can see while traveling this trail more than make up for the rough surface. There are many open glades, covered with moss and lichens, and these virtually glimmer if one visits the area in late winter. Some of the views from both mountains are spectacular. I certainly would not recommend this trail for the months of July or August, but for fall through spring, this makes a great hike. In the summer, intense heat, and dry conditions would make it unbearable. Although I personally have not seen rattlesnakes (since I have only traveled it in winter), I have heard that there are large numbers of these critters to be found in summer. I have traveled this section both as a day hike and as a weekend backpacking outing. For day hiking, I would suggest that one travel from north to south, ending at Johnsons Shut-ins State Park. By doing this, you would be saving the shut-ins until last and would be better able to budget the amount of time visiting this beautiful area. On the other hand, for backpacking, I suggest one travel from south to north. The only dependable water supply can be found at Padfield Branch, which is about two-thirds of the distance, if one travels from south to north. That makes an easier second day. There are some great camping spots on the north side of Padfield Branch. As soon as you cross the creek (where one can see the ruins of an old homestead), travel upsteam and you will find a large field. This is flat ground, and it is located near water. Naturally, all water should be treated. I have noted that the high water mark goes beyond the field, so, if you are unfortunate enough to be hiking this section in heavy rains, you would be better to camp on the south side of the stream, where there is relatively flat plateau in the pine trees. There is also a jeep trail here, which would take you to highway 49 in an emergency (this crosses private property, so be sure it is an emergency). Although the only dependable water can be found at Padfield Branch, during wet seasons one can also find water at Walker Branch, which is only about four miles north-west of the Johnson Shut-ins parking area. There is also some run-off at various points on the mountains, but don't depend on them. For those more adventurous types willing to carry ample water, camping on the top would truly be an experience. Facing west, as the trail does, the sunsets must be great!

Comments12Nov00 - Taum Sauk Section - Taum Sauk Mtn. to Johnson Shut-Ins - from Danny McMurphy from Sullivan, MO: I re-hiked a portion of the Taum Sauk Section between Taum Sauk Mountain and Johnson Shut-Ins on Veteran's Day 11 Nov 00. It had been 1990 since I had hiked this section, just after it had opened. It was a beautiful day for hiking and it had snowed on the top of Taum Sauk the night before so the top 3-400 feet of elevation of Taum Sauk and the surounding Mtns. had snow on the trees and grass but the trails and roads were clear. It really made for a winter wonderland scene on top. Although there was a little haze in the air the views were spectacular as the hillsides still were holding fall color to view and the high glades were as spectacular as ever. The wet snow that had fallen on the upper elevations made the trees and grasses sparkle as we walked down the trail. There are some established campsites through this area now. The first one is about 1-1/2 miles where the OT leaves Taum Sauk Creek and the Boy Scout Trail (white blazes) and heads NNW into the first side drainage area about 1/2 mile west of Wildcat Mountain (see the map). Just as the trail crosses the creek (it was flowing today anyway), there is a level campsite on the east bank. The trail eventually heads back SW to a point on Proffit Mtn overlooking over looking the Taum Sauk Creek Valley. This rock glade and many others along this high portion of the trail make some great places to camp with beautiful vistas. From here it is still about 3-1/2 miles along Proffit Mtn with many great vistas and rock glades to choose from if you want to camp over night. As you get to the trail junction where the trail goes three ways, to the Reservoir, to Taum Sauk Creek Creek via the Boy Scout Trail (white blazes) and on to Johnson Shut-Ins there is a campsite off to the left as you start descending towards Johnson Shut-ins State Park which overlooks the valley of the East Fork of the Black River that flows through Johnson Shut-Ins. There are some burned off areas on the south slopes of Proffit Mtn as well where the plants have re-grown to some great heights - 5-7 feet in places but the trail is worn enough so that it was no problem to find it. Arrows have also been painted on rocks in some of the glades so that you can find the trail on the other side. This is one section of the OT that everyone should do at least once but it is not for beginners and will give you legs, feet, and knees a workout as it is not a smooth trail except through a few sections of woods. Boulders, talus slopes, wet leaves, all create a challenge in certain areas. There was water flowing over Mina Sauk Falls and water in Taum Sauk Creek as well but during the dry summer months water gets very scarce along this section of the trail. Spring and fall are the best times to traverse this portion of the OT.

Comments15Nov01 - Taum Sauk Section - Bell Mtn to Johnson Shut-Ins - from Danny McMurphy of Sullivan, MO: I hiked this western half of the Taum Sauk Section backpacking from Bell Mtn to Johnson Shut-ins over the Columbus Day weekend of 2001. The vistas from the glades on the south end of Bell Mtn and on Goggins Mtn were spectacular and the fall colors were showing for the most part. Since I had hiked up from Hwy A on numerous occasions my hiking partner and I started at the north trailhead of the Bell Mountain Wilderness instead. I pretty much agree with Robert Smith's comments but I would prefer hiking from Bell Mtn to Johnson Shut-ins anytime of the year. It was still very dry out there and the only water (along the trail) we found between Bell Mtn and Johnson Shut-ins SP was at the Padfield Branch crossing. At Padfield Branch the branch was barely running but there is also a running spring behind the old house on the south side of the branch giving two sources of water there. Of course water is available at the base of Bell Mtn in Shut-in Creek if you take a side hike up thereto there on your journey but there is no trail down to the creek and it is very steep. I highly recommend visiting the top of Bell Mountain though - nearly as high as Taum Sauk but much more remote and great vistas can be found to the east and west !! Water is available at Johnson Shut-ins State Park once you get there but it may be totally dry again until you get to Taum Sauk Mtn. SP if you are hiking in late summer and in the fall - 2001 has been a particularly dry year and even Mina Sauk falls has essentially dried up.

comments16Oct03 - On Columbus Day weekend, 12 and 13 October ’03, I day hiked (with friends) the pieces of the Taum Sauk Section from Taum Sauk Mountain to Johnson Shut-ins on Sunday then from Hwy A to Johnson Shut-ins on Monday. Here are a few notes if you plan on backpacking through these areas.
There was only a trickle of water going through the middle of Mina Sauk Falls and no water was falling to the bottom of the Falls. Just east of the Devil’s Tollgate there was a spring/stream flowing into Taum Sauk Creek from the southeast in Section 8 near the border of Section 7. There are a few fire rings and campsites along the creek in this area. Several pools of water were seen in Taum Sauk Creek from this area to the west before the OT crosses Taum Sauk Creek and heads Northwest. Another campground with water flowing in the creek was noted where the trail crosses the creek on the east side of Section 6 prior to the trail climbing Proffit Mtn. No other available water was noted until you climb down the west side of Proffit Mtn and crisscross a tributary before reaching the East Fork of the Black River. The footbridge over the East Fork of the Black River was repaired the week before our hike.
From Hwy A to Johnson Shut-ins the only good water source is Padfield Branch and the spring behind the fallen-in house also on Padfield Branch just east of the creek crossing. No other water was seen flowing along the trail. I would also recommend getting a map of the Goggins Mountain Trail (horse/foot) as it comes within a 1/10th mile of the OT near the pond on Goggins Mtn., just south of the center in Section 12. The 2-1/2 miles of trail from Hwy N to the East Fork of the Black River is like a goat trail in many places – very narrow.
There is also a ¼ mile cutoff at the top of the shut-ins area that takes the OT around the shut-ins and bypasses the board walk tourist area. If you haven’t seen the shut-ins then stay along the river so that you don’t miss this scenic wonder of Missouri.

Maps: Map/brochure of this section is available from the Missouri Department of Natural Resources Ozark Trail Coordinator by calling 1-800-334-6946 (talk to a real person). Maps of trail sections can also be obtained from the Rolla Supervisor's Office, Mark Twain National Forest by calling 573-364-4621. Maps for this section are also available at Taum Sauk Mountain and Johnson Shut-ins State Parks and usually at the registration boxes at the trailheads. The USFS office in Potosi just off Hwy 8 on the west side of town also keeps maps in stock.

Cautions:I would avoid hiking this section in the mid-summer months when the heat is at its worst and finding water may become very difficult. The ticks will also be plentiful during the summer months.

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